For our very first heirloom designee, we came out strong with a unique selection of beans from the Alto Beni region of Bolivia, which was virtually unknown at the time. The beans had been developed from seed by farmers in the region and carefully fermented by Volker Lehmann, the famed cacao explorer who had spent years working with wild trees in Bolivia. The cacao was rich and complex, with strong fruity and chocolatey notes, and it set the bar high for the sixteen heirloom designees that followed over the next decade.
Now, in celebration of our tenth anniversary, we are auctioning off a once-in-a-lifetime lot of beans from the farm of Felix Paredes, the Grand Cru of Alto Beni beans. Felix has been farming cacao in the Alto Beni for 60 years. His beans were part of the mix for our HCP #1 designation, but this new lot is 100% from the Paredes farm. “When I saw his trees full of colorful cacao pods,” says Volker, “I knew he was the one to make a very special HCP#1 batch for the 10th anniversary.” The beans were box-fermented for five days, mixed once per day, and dried in three stages: first with warm air in a stainless-steel flatbed dryer, then rested for two days in open bags in a greenhouse, then finished for two half days in direct sun. The result is perfection. “I believe this is one of the best batches I’ve ever made,” says Volker. |
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"The beans, produced from May to July 2023, are from a single farm including 8 local varieties (Hybrids).
Farmer: Paredes Family, Sapecho, Alto Beni. Processing: Volker Lehmann at Flor de Cacao in Palos Blancos, Alto Beni Felix Paredes, born in 1947, as son of a miner from Potosi, who came to the valleys of the eastern parts of the Bolivian Andes when he was 8 years old. He helped his father to build a small farm and cutting trees for his wood business. His father kept looking for gold mining opportunities in the rivers when an uncle took Felix to Argentina, so he could go to school as there where no schools in Alto Beni at the time. But Felix quit school at 11, as he thought it was a waste of time, and started working cutting sugar cane in Tucuman, he wanted to earn money to go back to Alto Beni and have a farm. At 17 with the money he saved he managed to buy land and started planting oranges in the tiny village of Sapecho. In 1964 the Bolivian government managed to bring Trinitario cacao seeds from Ecuador and he helped to make the first cacao nursery and genebank. As payment he received 600 trees. He had to carry the young trees, in heavy bags, from the nursery 10 km by foot, walking back and forth for a month to his house where he prepared 3 hectares to plant them with the oranges. |
As in 2001 CATIE started a cacao project in Alto Beni to revitalize the production, Felix was first in line, but the varieties they recommended did not have much success. Production remained low. Felix was again disappointed. Then Felix heard from trees of other farmers that where very productive and that had been grown from seeds. He decided to collect this local material and to start his own nursery of productive trees by cloning. As he also has learned how to prune cacao trees properly his three hectares until today represent the best local high yielding and fine flavor varieties in one farm in Alto Beni.
I bought cacao from Felix since the start of Flor de Cacao in Palos Blancos in 2011 when we developed a fine flavor project. He always delivered his cacao, but we didn't speak much. He got his money and came back with fresh beans when he had. My people knew Felix and recommended him, but I never visited his farm until last year, when I reopened Flor de Cacao after 8 years of shutdown. His beans probably went into the batch I made for Zokoko in 2013 that became HCP#1 in 2014. When I saw his trees, full of colorful cacao pods, all this different varieties and after he finally told me his live story I knew he is the one to make a very special HCP#1 batch for the 10th anniversary. Of course, it is impossible to make the same cacao again that was send to HCP in 2013, so we decided to use only the cacao from the Paredes farm for a special batch. |