Is Some of the Best Artisan Chocolate Found In Utah?
Nov 7, 2018, Michele Herrmann, Forbes
Utah’s connection to chocolate is quite solid. From chocolate appreciation societies to artisan chocolate producers, the Beehive State can be said to have tasty ties to this confection.
“For the most part in Utah, people get into chocolate production after being connoisseurs and having a deep knowledge and respect for the craft,” said Matt Caputo, CEO of Caputo’s, a gourmet grocery business that carries Utah-made chocolate.
Caputo can be credited with helping to develop more of a community taste for artisan-produced chocolate in Utah. Having started to stock these types of chocolates in 2005, within his Salt Lake City location, he originally found that bars weren’t exactly flying off the shelves.
Chocolate Makers using HCP Heirloom Cacao are featured in the article: Amano Artisan Chocolate, Solstice Chocolate, and Millcreek Cacao Roasters. See all those chocolate makers using HCP Heirloom cacao on this page.
Celebrating History, Dedicated to Sustainability
Guittard Chocolate Company Marks 150 Years with
Eureka Works, A Limited-Edition 62% Chocolate Blend
Burlingame, CA (June 25, 2018)¾ To celebrate its 150th year of making chocolate, family-owned Guittard Chocolate Company is releasing Eureka Works, a limited-edition chocolate blend formulated for everything from confectionary use to baking applications. Eureka Works is named after the first factory that founder Etienne Guittard opened in San Francisco during the Gold Rush, and the blend evokes the West Coast flavor profile of that time. Before the Panama Canal was built, there was a distinct taste difference between East Coast and West Coast chocolate based on the cacao varieties regional chocolate makers were able to source. Gary Guittard, fourth generation CEO and chocolate maker, was inspired by Etienne’s recipe books and a vintage ad showing Guittard’s early cocoa sourcing map to recreate the original West Coast flavor profile with a blend from like-minded cocoa growers in Ecuador, Indonesia, Hawaii and Brazil.
Eureka Works also reflects Guittard’s ongoing leadership in sustainable cocoa sourcing and stewardship. The company sources fine flavor cacao from cocoa-growing regions around the world, showcasing the flavors unique to each country through their roasting and blending expertise. For every Eureka Works bar sold, 5% of the proceeds will go to the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund to support its work promoting the preservation of fine flavor cacao. According to Gary Guittard, “Everyone who purchases the Eureka Works bar will get a taste of Guittard’s history and help ensure the preservation of heirloom cacao for the next 150 years.”
Eureka Works 62% is a complex, chocolate blend reflecting the Pacific trade routes that led to San Francisco bringing the beans Etienne would have sourced. As an inspirational early 20th century Guittard ad cited, “…the aromatic cocoa of the Indies. Richly colored, fine, full beans from Samoa in the South Seas. Mellow, deeply flavored beans from the Tropical Americas.”
Ecuador: The largest producer of cocoa at the turn of the century, Ecuador is still home to the Arriba, or Nacional, variety of cocoa. Renowned for its aroma and complexity, this historic cocoa variety is grown by the organic-certified Sabor Arriba cooperative in Esmeraldas, Northern Ecuador.
Indonesia: Cacao first arrived in Indonesia in the 1600s, and today the country is the third-largest cocoa producer in the world. This aromatic cocoa comes from East Java where the Dutch established plantations in the mid 1600s. Guittard is partnering with the Indonesian Coffee & Cocoa Research Institute (CCRI) to help them rediscover the unique, historic flavors of this diverse island nation.
Hawaii: To recreate the flavors of the beans Guittard once sourced from Samoa, they turned to Hawaii¾the only region in the U.S. that grows cocoa. Its new, award-winning cacao industry has bolstered farms like Waialua Estate on the north shore of Oahu, where these beans were grown. Since 2005, Guittard has worked closely with the farm on post-harvest techniques that bring out the full flavor of this unique cacao.
Brazil: The Brazilian cacao industry changed drastically in 1989 when disease wiped out nearly all of the country’s cocoa plantations. Cocoa sourced for this chocolate comes from the Fazenda Camboa farm, in the heart of the Bahia growing region, where the third generation of the Carvalho family has worked to restore this plantation to its former glory.
Collection Etienne Eureka Works 62% Bittersweet Chocolate ($29.95 / 500-gram bar in gift box) is available exclusively at Guittard.com. Find tasting notes, recipes, and a list of chefs and restaurants creating desserts with Eureka Works at Guittard.com/150.
Guittard Eureka Works PDF
Chocolate experts reflect on working with Anthony Bourdain; say he had ‘affinity with cocoa farmers’
Following news of Anthony Bourdain’s recent death, Good & Evil chocolate bars were suddenly pulled from its producer Éclat Chocolate’s website as owner Christopher Curtin said the decision was made out of respect towards the celebrity chef.
Our HCP President, Dan Pearson, is featured in the article as he worked with Anthony when “Parts Unknown” came to the Marañon Valley.
Dr. Kristy Leissle writes a two part post on Chocolopolis discussing the losers and winners when cocoa prices rise.
A few weeks ago, as I was preparing to talk to Joe Weisenthal on Bloomberg’s “What’d You Miss?” about cocoa’s price rise earlier this year, my partner, as he often does, asked questions to help me gather my speaking thoughts. My partner said, “You always talk about who loses when the price of cocoa goes down. Who wins when it goes up?”
From years of studying this industry, I can usually start talking right away when someone asks me a question. But this one brought me up short. I had never thought about who wins.
After the Bloomberg segment, I talked to Lauren about this question. She was interested, too, and invited me to write a post to think it through. I have not met too many people working in cocoa who describe themselves as “winning.” Given that, it felt important to devote a post to who does lose out when cocoa’s price rises. In next week’s post, I’ll tackle the winners.
First, large chocolate manufacturers and cocoa processors lose out when cocoa’s price rises. No company wants the price of their primary input to go up. As I read recently in The Cocoa Coast by Shashidhara Kolavalli and Marcella Vigneri, on average across all types of products, cocoa accounts for about half the raw material costs of making chocolate. When cocoa’s price surges, as it did recently, these companies face having to pay more for the ingredient they need the most.
An insightful article on the fine chocolate industry from HCP Board member, Brad Kintzer:
Taking cues from the coffee and craft beer movements, fine chocolate options are gaining momentum. Brad Kintzer, chief chocolate maker for TCHO Chocolate, helps us better understand this exciting sector.
Until recently, it was uncommon to find double IPA beers in corner dive bars, single-origin cold brew coffee on tap at national chains, and Japanese Kobe beef burgers featured on small town restaurant menus. No one could have predicted the meteoric rise of craft quality foods and the way they have captured consumer’s attention, as well as shelf space in the grocery aisles.
When Cost is the apex predator, tasty but expensive-to-produce chocolate will perish. Only the cheap, bland and boring will survive.
Karla Lant, FED, 3/22/2018Bathed in fluorescent light, row upon row of mass-produced chocolate candies compete for attention in drug stores across the western world.
With the Easter holiday upon us, children line up for baskets filled with sugary sweets. To these sugar-hooked youngsters, quantity, not quality, is king. To meet this need, producers have altered products until they no longer have the rich taste of true chocolate.
Not only does this cheat the taste-buds, it also poses a threat to the survival of the truly tasty products we actually enjoy.
Chocolate made with real cocoa butter isn’t cheap. Cacao is expensive to produce, difficult to grow and, with the consumer demanding low prices for their favourite celebratory snack, profit margins are slim.
Our colleague and HCP/FCIA supporter Kristy Leissle’s soon to be released book, Cocoa gets a review by the Financial Times, who says “She argues that the most essential ingredient to achieve sustainability is that farmers come to regard their work as honourable and valued — and that their children see the worth of staying in the business.”
At HCP, we couldn’t agree more – as the farmer is at the heart of our mission.
Click here for the full review!
Tuesday, Jan 21 2018 – The Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund (HCP) is delighted to announce that the cacao trees of Tujikomboe Farmers Group, Tanzania; and Akesson’s Bejofo Estate, Madagascar have been designated HEIRLOOM. They become, respectively, the fourteenth and fifteenth HCP Heirloom designations made since the 2014 inaugural Heirlooms.
The HCP’s International Tasting Panel tasting notes for Heirloom 14: Immediate presence of a rich chocolate note with an early fruit acidity presence following the chocolate blending in tart fresh fruits—citrus and tropical—a note that will persist throughout the flavor profile. Complex with the base chocolate of Amelonado from Africa. Tasting Notes for Heirloom 15: A burst of a fresh tart citric fruit—sour cherry, citron, tart orange and lemon with a soft fleshy fruit side—apricot, soursop, guanaba. Throughout this taste profile, there is an overlay of a caramelized sugar / panella / sweet toffee note. The criollo parentage is certainly showing through! Specific notes can be found on at http://hcpcacao.org/heirloom-designees/
Lesley Family Foundation supports Heirloom Cacao Nursery Project
The HCP is also very excited to announce the commencement of their new Heirloom Cacao Nursery Project made possible by a grant from the Lesley Family Foundation. This project will utilize grafts from the designated Heirloom Cacao trees in Belize and Ecuador in cooperation with the USDA/ARS to develop nurseries and experimental farm plots, determine best management practices for these rare varieties, and provide training to local farmers in nursery development and cultivation techniques. Our goal is to not only protect and propagate fine flavor cacao for future generations but to also improve the livelihoods for cacao growing families.
“We are honored to be partnering with the Lesley Family Foundation whose mission is to “produce profound good that is tangible and measurable” and know that both organizations working together can produce great results,” says Dan Pearson, HCP President.
About the Lesley Family Foundation
The Lesley Family Foundation is a small family foundation created in 2001 and based in Dallas, Texas.
The Foundation’s mission is to help create profound and tangible good in the world. The foundation’s specific areas of interest are: to benefit nature and wildlife conservation; to prevent cruelty to animals and support their rehabilitation; Children’s emotional and psychological well-being and to support cultural, literary and artistic endeavors in the community.
The HCP is excited to have worked with Marou Cacao in designating Treasure Island trees as Heirloom Cacao #13. See page 16 in the following Marou Cacao Report 2017 for an update on Mr. Cong and his farm. Here is the introduction to the report:
We have been making chocolate in Vietnam since 2011, working with small farmers to source quality cacao. From the start, we have been committed to strong relationships and quality standards. Now that our network of farmers has grown, we have time to look back at how far we’ve come, and share some details of our sourcing process.
Click here to open the whole Report
On 20th July 2017, the Belize Foundation for Research & Environmental Education (BFREE) along with Ya’axché Conservation Trust hosted the first Belize Cacao and Agroforestry Forum, entitled “The Future of the Cacao industry in Belize,” at the Church of the Nazarene Medical and Education Center in the historic village of San Pedro Columbia, Toledo District.
Tthe Forum brought together nearly 50 participants representing the NGO community, cacao farmers, community leaders, and government representatives in what proved to be an extremely positive event.
BFREE has been hosting and sponsoring workshops, symposiums, and forums to promote the conservation and maintenance of Belize’s rich biodiversity, its tropical forests, watersheds and abundant wildlife for the last 25 years, including promoting cacao-based agroforestry as a tool for conserving and restoring tropical forests benefiting both people and wildlife.
The Forum had two primary goals; bring together a group of stakeholders in order to share information, discuss challenges and explore opportunities for collaboration and compile information regarding the cacao industry in Belize for inclusion in a regional cacao website, CocoaNext, which will be launched later this year by the Cocoa Research Centre at the University of the West Indies in Trinidad and Tobago.
Forum goals were achieved as information was shared and opportunities for collaboration were considered. The group represented an exceptional diversity of experts with a wide breadth of knowledge and experience representing in Belize’s cacao industry making for focused and informative discussions throughout the day.
With the success of the Forum behind us, participants are already looking forward to the future. The shared desire resonated – that Belize and, particularly Toledo, will continue to become an important player in the local, regional and world Cacao Market and that this growing industry will benefit local farmers, local businesses, Belize’s economy, and most importantly future generations.
The Forum speakers included:
Funding for the Forum was provided by Belize Foundation for Research & Environmental Education, Ya’axché Conservation Trust, and the US Fish and Wildlife Service, on behalf of the Nyanza Natural Resource Damage Trustee Council – comprised of the Service, Commonwealth of Massachusetts and the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration.