Episode 12: Piura

Writings, photos, and videos by Alyssa D'Adamo

After a week or so, a few flights, and many boats, it’s abundantly clear: Peru is massive. We’re continuing on through the thick air of the northwest coast where Monsanto’s grip is tight: Piura.

We follow a long and bumpy road into the foothills of the Cerro Amotape mountain range, the northern stretch of the Peruvian Andes, where the air starts to become lighter and lighter by the kilometer. Tucked away in these vast fields of genetically modified fruits and vegetables are native cacaos that have been passed down from generation to generation. 

Mey wasn’t particularly enthusiastic about doing research in this area, since most of the interesting cacao had been identified and locked down by Norandino, a large cooperative that operates all over Peru. Her colleague Don Luis was able to change her mind. He discovered untouched, ancestral cacaos being cultivated in a farm concealed in the “alta Piura,” all by word of mouth of the project with the HCP. She had to check it out for herself.

That brings us to Don Alberto Bustamante Zapata. A farmer of the indigenous community of Awajun Ashánika in the Alta Piura of San Juan de Bigote. We’re accompanied by where Don Jose Francisco Aquinigo Sancez, President of the Asocación de Pequeños Productores de Cacao de Piura (APPROCAP). Don Albertyo introduces us to his 90 year old grandmother, who sits kindly in our company. He tells us that they don’t have record of precisely when the seeds were planted, but he’s certain that the trees are more than one hundred years old. 

I follow Mey, Luis, Alberto and Jose into the field, and listen as the discuss the potential origins of these massive cacao trees.  There are some theories that they come from the area of Jaén, just nuzzled into the mountains, a mere nine hours away by car…who knows how long by donkey.

Although there’s discretion on the exact origin, the potential is undeniable. The beans are pearly white, sweet like mango, but with a bright, passionfruit-like finish. Mey and Don Luis take measurements and parameters for potential submission. 

These fruits are part of family history for a lot of these communities. If we don’t preserve them the stories die with the flavors. They’re a dime a dozen.

Thanks to the work of Don Jose and APPROCAP, they’re able to keep these stories alive. Don Jose takes us to the cooperative to check on the fermenting, drying, and exporting of around 5 tons of dry cacao per year, both nationally and internationally, from 163 producers of the local community, one third of them being women. Don Jose is doing this for the farmer, for fine flavor, and for the future of cacao in Peru.
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The drastic change in cacao prices is felt all across the value chain, especially on the farmers. Many producers were starting to abandon their cacao crops due to lack of resources. Don Jose couldn’t stand for that. He began providing support, technical assistance, and nearly the maximum price per kilo he could offer based on the current stock prices. Heirloom designation is recognized that will add value to the cacao and the cooperative, and allow them to keep supporting these farmers.

Why does he care so much? Well, he shows us. We walk just behind the cooperative across a small stream to reveal his treasure trove of fine-flavor cacao. The area is decorated with spotted, interestingly-shaped cacao pods boasting from tree to tree. It’s clear that this cacao is special. He knows it’s special, too. His cacao was awarded number one in the nation at the Salon de Cacao y Chocolate in Lima just last year, and continues to be recognized for it’s renowned flavor.  Mey and Don Leon are taking precise measures to ensure that they have the greatest possibility to receive designation. ​

As we head back to the truck, Don Jose leans closer to me, looks me dead in the eyes and says, “Thank you for what you [HCP] are doing. This could mean so much for us.” He puts out his hand as I respond, “We would not be able to do what we do without you [farmers],” and sends us on our way.

Could these be the samples that finally put Peru on the map of Heirloom designation? The team of experts on the ground and in the labs are working hard to make that happen. We’re in high hopes for these samples for the community, and to finally put Peru on the map of HCP designation.