Writings, photos, and videos by Alyssa D'Adamo After a week or so, a few flights, and many boats, it’s abundantly clear: Peru is massive. We’re continuing on through the thick air of the northwest coast where Monsanto’s grip is tight: Piura. We follow a long and bumpy road into the foothills of the Cerro Amotape mountain range, the northern stretch of the Peruvian Andes, where the air starts to become lighter and lighter by the kilometer. Tucked away in these vast fields of genetically modified fruits and vegetables are native cacaos that have been passed down from generation to generation.
I follow Mey, Luis, Alberto and Jose into the field, and listen as the discuss the potential origins of these massive cacao trees. There are some theories that they come from the area of Jaén, just nuzzled into the mountains, a mere nine hours away by car…who knows how long by donkey. Although there’s discretion on the exact origin, the potential is undeniable. The beans are pearly white, sweet like mango, but with a bright, passionfruit-like finish. Mey and Don Luis take measurements and parameters for potential submission. These fruits are part of family history for a lot of these communities. If we don’t preserve them the stories die with the flavors. They’re a dime a dozen.
Why does he care so much? Well, he shows us. We walk just behind the cooperative across a small stream to reveal his treasure trove of fine-flavor cacao. The area is decorated with spotted, interestingly-shaped cacao pods boasting from tree to tree. It’s clear that this cacao is special. He knows it’s special, too. His cacao was awarded number one in the nation at the Salon de Cacao y Chocolate in Lima just last year, and continues to be recognized for it’s renowned flavor. Mey and Don Leon are taking precise measures to ensure that they have the greatest possibility to receive designation. As we head back to the truck, Don Jose leans closer to me, looks me dead in the eyes and says, “Thank you for what you [HCP] are doing. This could mean so much for us.” He puts out his hand as I respond, “We would not be able to do what we do without you [farmers],” and sends us on our way.
Could these be the samples that finally put Peru on the map of Heirloom designation? The team of experts on the ground and in the labs are working hard to make that happen. We’re in high hopes for these samples for the community, and to finally put Peru on the map of HCP designation.
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We had the honor of awarding the two newest farmers with Heirloom designation at the Chocolate Makers UnConference in Seattle on October 4th. HCP Board President Richard Tango-Lowy led the ceremony, guiding audience members through an exclusive tasting of the chocolates provided by Guittard Chocolate that were made using the beans from each farmer, and evaluated by the HCP’s renowned tasting panel. Lyndel Meinhardt led the genetics discussion, comparing each designees.
Photos:
Top Left HCP Executive Director Anne Zazcek (right) and Communications Coordinator Alyssa D’Adamo (left) Top Middle Dancing Lion’s intricate assortment of Heirloom Excellence Top Right Loon Chocolate’s 70% Bolivian Heirloom TRANQUILIDAD, Bolivia Bottom Left: Grocer’s Daughter 85% Los Rios — VINCES, Ecuador Bottom Right Awarding former HCP President and Heirloom Designee in Belize, Jacob Marlin, with a glass cacao pod to honor him for his contributions to the HCP. |
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